Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Entrepreneurial vs Consumer Mentalities

The owner and CEO of multi-million dollar clothing 
brand FUBU started his company  
sewing caps in his mother's kitchen. 



Intellectuals in the Black community have often expressed the need for members of the African American community to start their own businesses and engage in group economics.  Small businesses create income opportunity and decrease our dependence on others to give us jobs. In competing against large corporations, one is emboldened by ample access to many internet venues which help to level the playing field. A small operation is often more able to provide better customer service with a more personal approach to doing business. An added benefit is the lowered financial risk of an online business. You need not invest a large sum of money nor quit your day job while starting up.

Every year the fashion industry cranks out tons of foreign, mass-produced, inexpensive clothing.  Finding a niche within a saturated market is often the key to making a living in any business. To develop an entrepreneurial mind you must think outside the box.

Someone with a consumer mentality would say:
 "Why go to the trouble of making a durag when I can just get one online for about $2.00?"

An entrepreneurial mentality studies a market, he finds where his product might be needed or desired and he thinks (for example):    
  • "I could get my friend Alice to sew up a few blank durags. Then I will paint my tattoo designs on them and offer them for sale at the swap meet."
  • "This basic durag pattern needs a little adjustment so I can sew a hat onto the top. That will keep people from losing their sunhats in the wind when they are at the beach.
  •  "Maybe that new cafeteria on the corner would like to buy some of these durags with their logo on it for their cooks and waiters to look really sharp."
  • "I should offer these for sale online to people who are looking for a nice gift for a friend who likes gardening or cooking, maybe I could add a matching apron."
  • "I can improve this durag pattern and sell a different version."
  • "The community center may like me to teach a class on how to sew a durag."
  • "I'm going to use a different fabric than the one suggested in the pattern instructions. I need one with more elasticity." 
Aaron Henry saw a market for his product and invented the Tsurag,  Inventor Oladele Levi Adejare actually decided to patent his durag. Perhaps he is looking for an associate to market his idea to the public. The owner and CEO of the multi-million dollar clothing brand FUBU started his company sewing caps in his mother's kitchen in the mornings while waiting tables nights at Red Lobster.

Check out one consumer who decided to turn her love for nails into a business:  Stay Ready Studio in Houston, Texas.

(Disclosure: Craftsy is compensating PetitPoix for some of the business generated by this blog. i.e new subscribers or enrollment in craftsy.com online craft classes. )                 

Thursday, January 15, 2015

Copycats on the Prowl



Left:  Anna Sui 2011  Right:  Forever 21
Forever 21 has been sued over 50 times & has never lost a case
Although they say, "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery." it can be quite discouraging when you are forced to compete with copycats to sell your own design.   This will happen to you as a fashion designer and unfortunately, unless you have a protected trademark, a seasoned designer understands that this is just part of doing business and usually can only react with a heavy sigh. It is not unheard of - especially in an industry as saturated as is clothing - that two or more independent designers create very similar products and had known nothing of what the other designers were doing. "Zeitgeist" in fashion refers to the tastes and looks that are inspired out of the general political and/or social atmosphere therefore more than one designer may be drawing from a strong surrounding impetus. (Read the the earlier post, The Sociology of Fashion for more information). Even if you know for a fact that the other seller has stolen your idea it is difficult to prove.  When you are first getting into the fashion business, your copycat may merely be an insecure person, jealous of your potential success and trying to undercut your sales. Confronting him or her is probably a waste of valuable time and energy. Use it instead for creating new designs, marketing, networking and continuously improving consumer trust in your brand. A professional maintains her calm and dignity, as difficult as that may be. The "overnight success" in any business is a myth.  Many of today's successful designers have usually spent several years barely making ends meet with their design business and working other jobs on the side, for example the late Princess Diana's favorite dress designer or the owner and CEO of the multimillion dollar FUBU label.

Somes things you could try if you suspect a copycat:

Contact the other designer. If it truly was a coincidence then that designer may be thinking that YOU copied HIS design and has just not said anything.  If you feel comfortable about it, you could try a polite, private and non-accusatory email. Reaching out to the other artist could lead to a collaboration or a mutually beneficial business relationship, especially since your design aesthetics seem to be so in tune.  Tread carefully though.  If the other designer responds defensively just let it go. An online shouting match could be at best unpleasant and at worst damaging to your reputation throughout social media and industry networking circles.

Sell the Pattern. If you have sold even one of your designs you have in essence already sold the pattern. Anyone can deconstruct your creation and copy it. Home sewers, knitters and crocheters are great customers for patterns.  Put your pattern up for sale online alongside the merchandise to appeal to different market segments.   You can offer the pattern as a pdf file for automatic download on many of the more popular online venues. One place to offer a pattern or other merchandise for sale is on etsy.com. Visit Fettuccinetube for basic patternmaking classes.

Offer your design to a brick and mortar shop.  Find small, reputable boutiques in your area and offer a few of your pieces wholesale or on consignment.  This is not easy, it is basically door-to-door sales.  You could email the boutique if they happen to have a website. Here are a few other tips:  Getting your Line into Boutiques.

Create your own Textiles.  Maybe someone can copy your clothing pattern but it it much more difficult to copy your textile.  This entails creating a fabric of your own.  For example buying a plain cotton fabric and dying or painting your own personal design onto it. You could also learn screenprinting and copyright your own original screenprint image to print over and over onto your designs.  If your copycat tries to use the same image you will have some legal leverage.

Keep improving.  This is a challenge to yourself to innovate and make your designs more difficult to copy, your marketing and advertising more impressive, your message more powerful.  This will not stop the copying altogether but  - unless the copycat is a huge clothing brand - it will become more and more difficult for others to keep up with  your progress. Be sure to copyright any photos, artwork or trademark any slogans in your advertising. Infringement on these things is easier to prove if your copycat tries to use them.

Bear in mind that whether we realize it or not, inspiration in design always comes from other things. In a way everything is copied however it is usually translated through each designer's unique vision. To avoid being accused of copying yourself it is best to get inspiration from things other than clothes such as art, music, nature, architecture  etc....


See an interesting perspective from a pair of independent clothing designers who were the guilty party in a copycat situation.  Read how in hindsight they feel that getting caught helped them improve their brand.



Friday, January 9, 2015

Super Selected - "Representations of Black Women"

Article: "Model Yomi Abiola Talks....." 1/9/2015
Super Selected is an online magazine which mainly - albeit not exclusively - covers issues concerning  Black women and their diverse world with the latest in design, fashion, art, film, writing, music, news and more. Black issues and Black owned small businesses are also examined. Created by a New York fashion stylist, the rich, beautiful layout is easy on the eyes while sending messages of pride, empowerment and inspiration.  Many of the magazine's features are contributed by its readers from around the globe. Try your hand and submit an article for consideration.

Sunday, January 4, 2015

Harlem's Fashion Row - Opportunity For Emerging Designers of Color

To say that African Americans are underrepresented in the fashion industry would be an understatement, particularly in the world of high end fashion. As stated directly from Harlem's Fashion Row website:

"Designers of color represent less than 1% of designers available in major department stores. In an industry that has grossed over 250 billion in 2013 alone the voice of designers of color are not being heard, celebrated, and acknowledged. HFR was created for the sole purpose of breaking that industry standard."

HFR offers opportunities to fashion students and budding designers to learn and gain tools and exposure to the industry and towards professional development through networking, internships and events throughout the year where designers can show their creations.

Check the Designers Deck R1 schedule at the top of the 2015 Designer Application.  The first event of 2015 will be the LA Fashion Show Grammy weekend (February 6) in Los Angeles, CA. Accepted designers will have the opportunity to show and sell their designs to a curated audience. Designers will also have pre-show and post-show interviews and a Q & A in the show program.  Hair stylists, makeup artists and dressers for your models are also provided.


Saturday, January 3, 2015

"Nude" Underwear Catering to Black Women


https://www.nubianskin.com/
Happy 2015!
Frustrated by her own struggles in finding underwear to wear under her sheer outfits, Ade Hassan created her company Nubian Skin, a line of underwear and hosiery that caters to black women. Read her interview with the Huffington Post where she talks about her inspiration, black models and her guilty pleasures.  The official launch of Nubian Skin took place on December 10, 2014 at the luxurious Covent Garden Hotel in London. For now Nubian Skin is only available online, however they ship worldwide and should be coming to stores soon!

Visit the Nubian Skin Website website: https://www.nubianskin.com/
 and don't forget to "like" them on Facebook