Thursday, June 30, 2011

Cool Hunting. Teens Decide Today's Trends

Trends "trickle-up" from the street.
Teens play a very big role in developing what will appear on next season's runways. "You really shouldn't talk down to teenagers. You should first educate yourself on what they like." This advice from Sharon Lee, professional  "Cool Hunter".  Field correspondents for the company she started with her partner Dee Dee Gordon communicate through the website and Facebook page with pictures, observations and opinions on what they are seeing every day. Teens also participate in surveys conducted by company and are at the forefront of developing new fashion trends each season as well as in the development of the new products for other companies.  "We look for kids who are ahead of the pack, because they'll influence what all the other kids do. We look for the 20 percent, the trendsetters, who are going to influence the other 80 percent." The apparel design companies who use their services are in a never-ending race to be the first to launch the next new craze in fashion.  On PBS Frontline: Hunting for Cool, Lee continues, explaining how trends spread:,  "...it's a triangle. At the top of the triangle there's the innovator, which is like two to three percent of the population. Underneath them is the trend-setter, which we would say is about 17 percent. What they do is they pick up on ideas that the innovators are doing and they kind of claim them as their own. Underneath them is an early adopter, which is questionable exactly what their percentage is, but they kind of are the layer above mainstream, which is about 80 percent. And what they do is they take what the trend-setter is doing and they make it palatable for mass consumption. They take it, they tweak it, they make it more acceptable, and that's when the mass consumer picks up on it and runs with it and then it actually kills it."  These days, by the time you get around to buying the "latest style", it's already on it's way out!
        View yourself in various casual hairstyles at TheHairStyler.com!

Friday, June 24, 2011

Diana Dress Auction: Travolta Dress Commands Highest Bid

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Read How Diana developed her iconic style.  According to CBC News "The dark blue dress Diana wore while dancing with John Travolta at a 1985 White House state dinner was the top-selling item at $800,000. Waddington's is donating a portion of its commission from the Toronto auction to Canada's National Ballet School in recognition of Diana's passion for both kids and ballet."  The fourteen dresses sold for a total amount of US$3,170,000.  See the breakdown for each dress in this article in The Toronto Star . Read more about the dress designers and the auction at Waddington's in Toronto Canada.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

From Cab Driver to Perfume Designer - Christopher Brosius

Perfume is a non-visual form of dress. Much more than just mixing pretty scents, chemistry plays a major role in perfume design and - as in clothing design - excellent perfume design is inspired. Christopher Brosius was inspired in part to begin designing perfume and start his very unusual company from a rather unconventional sources. After receiving his degree in architecture from Columbia University, he worked many odd jobs; at one point as a taxi driver where he was often left nauseated for his entire shift from female passengers wearing perfumes that impregnated the interior of his cab. Ironically at that point in his life he decided that he "hated perfume."   He was presented with the opportunity to start designing scents in 1988.  He has been quoted to say: "Perfume is too often an ethereal corset trapping everyone in the same unnatural shape." One of his earliest commercially launched scents was inspired by a scent he loved ever since he was a child. He says, "I have always loved the smell of things – particularly growing things. I decided to try to capture some of these smells and my first real breakthrough was Dirt. One of my greatest pleasures was digging among the vegetables, herbs and flowers in my small garden on the farm. I loved the smell of the fresh clean earth and decided to bottle it. It was a far greater success than I’d ever dreamed. I suppose the rest is history."  Get a first hand view inside Mr. Brosius' head as he works to get inspired, create and market his scents. His online journal is fascinating especially for those of you interested in pursuing a career in fashion design.  Browse the website for an incredible experience: CB I Hate Perfume .

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Diana Style

Diana´s most prolific dress designer, the late Catherine Walker, had absolutely no formal training in fashion design when, widowed with two small children, she began peddling clothes out of a basket in the Chelsea neighborhood of London. King´s Road, the main boulevard, is known for its atypical and pricy boutiques and is where Mary Quant´s mini-skirt first debutted in the 1960s. Catherine was to become "the" designer who launched Princess Diana from a shy, awkward, gangly girl to a 1980s and 90s fashion icon.  On June 23, 2011 at 7:00 p.m.14 of Diana´s dresses will  go to auction at Waddington´s in Toronto, Canada.  Diana herself, at  the suggestion of her son, Prince William, offered these same dresses among the 79 original dresses that were auctioned off at Christie´s New York exactly 14 years ago, raising over  3 million British pounds (approx. US$3.6 million) for various AIDS and cancer charities. You can see the 14 dresses in detail online.
Happier Times. L to R: Prince Harry, Diana
and future king of England, Prince William.

Diana. Imperfect and emotional. So very human. Arguably the most loved princess in the history of the British Royal family. A Cinderella story gone awry, stripped of her royal title after the inevitable divorce from Prince Charles. Her flaws and misfortunes only made us love her more.  She was "one of us".  She was "The People´s Princess" and as stated by her brother in 1997 after a tragic accident took her life on the streets of Paris, "...she needed no royal title to continue to generate her particular brand of magic."

Update:  See here for auction results


Monday, June 13, 2011

Cornrows and Dreds: Black Hair History

Photo "African girl" by: istockphoto.com/poco_bw

Carol's Daughter -"Fulfilling the Beauty Needs of the Diversity of Skins that Make up the Tapestry of our World..."







Carol's Daughter

Hair Milk Original Leave-In Moisturizer (820645226111)
FOR CURLS, COILS, KINKS & WAVES




"When the African people were torn from their cultures during the Atlantic slave trade, many forms of silent resistance arose. Some of these were in the ancient African tradition of cornrow braiding and locking hair." Continuing our series of blogs on the sociology of fashion we  investigate the anthropological and sociological significance of traditional African hairstyles which have become popular in our western hip-hop culture. From the book: Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America, "White people remarked, “dreadful”
to the unattended locks of slaves emerging from the ships after months of voyaging in unhygienic conditions. The “a” was laterdropped to remove the negative connotation from the term dredlocks.
(Page 125)." More than an elaborate expression of beauty, the origins of cornrow styles have profound hierarchical, social and religious meaning. Based on trigonometric concepts, a wide variety of architectural spirals, lines and curves were developed. While the designs are highly mathematical, ancient African peoples most likely braided using creative intuition combined with teachings by older members of the community. In the United States cornrows continued to develop and merge with European trends and Native American styles. Below are some interesting links to informational resources regarding natural African hair, including an interesting talk given by ethno-mathematician Ron Eglash- regarding the mathematics and fractal patterns seen throughout Africa which continue to be reflected in the cornrow hairstyles even today; and the wonderful online educational software application "Cornrow Curves" for history, understanding and the making your own cornrow designs.  Watch Oscar Winning Lupita Nyong'o Show off her braiding techiques,

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Citrus Style

Citrus Style

Yellow and orange are underestimated in fashion. Citric colors are flattering to most skins and can be used year round. Lemon-yellow and orange-orange look especially striking against summer-bronzed skin.  Consider a bright maxi-dress with raffia wedge sandals this summer.  You can also compliment the rich changing colors of autumn, the warm rebirth of spring and add fire where warmth is needed in winter.  Add a touch of lime-green, grapefruit-pink or pomegranate to really wow them! There are gorgeous choices for citrus fashion year round. Make up tip: Orange tones in lipstick make teeth appear whiter. Do you have a citrus style you´d like us to see?  Send a picture and we´ll post it on Petit Poix!

Citrus Style by Petit Poix featuring yellow shoes

Dress
$106 - aliceandolivia.com

Diane von Furstenberg low cut dress
$425 - net-a-porter.com

TopShop long yellow dress
$95 - topshop.com

Diane von Furstenberg orange evening dress
328 GBP - matchesfashion.com

Merle O Grady ruched dress
$536 - my-wardrobe.com

Dorothy Perkins yellow evening dress
45 GBP - dorothyperkins.com

CALYPSO ST BARTH long top
$69 - calypsostbarth.com

Michael Kors espadrille shoes
$727 - couture.zappos.com

Suede heels
$140 - topshop.com

ALDO high heel sandals
$70 - aldoshoes.com

Dorothy Perkins yellow shoes
42 GBP - dorothyperkins.com

Paloma Barceló platform wedge heels
$270 - net-a-porter.com

Diane von Furstenberg suede sandals
$280 - net-a-porter.com

Kelsi Dagger summer sandals
$100 - heels.com

Yellow sandals
$50 - heels.com

Esther Perbandt clutch bag
338 EUR - styleserver.de

Printed bag
$22 - crateandbarrel.com

Dorothy Perkins orange bracelet
13 GBP - dorothyperkins.com

Sylvia Yellow - arrivals
savafashion.com

ASOS orange hat
25 GBP - asos.com

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Anthropology of Fashion: Tattoos and Makeup


Photo:  istock.com/PeterPhoto

www.BHCosmetics.com 
Andrea Saltzman, architect, founder of the division of Fashion Design in the Architecture department of the University of Buenos Aires and author of the innovative book  "El Cuerpo Diseñado" (The Body Designed) writes:
"Since the beginning of civilization the human body has been one of the most fertile canvases for artistic expression and for the communication of concepts. The decoration and ritualization of the body with paint, a form of body modification, is spread throughout most of the world´s cultures dating as far back as the paleolithic era."
Saltzman continues:
"When Charles Darwin investigated primitive cultures in the XIX century, he found that there was no territory, from the North Pole to New Zealand where the natives did not color their skin or use tattoos. This includes the people who lived in extreme climates, as in the south of Argentina.  The inhabitants used hardly any clothing at all, as if their need to adorn, beautify and modify the significance of their skin was more imperative than bundling up."
Scar Pattern on the body of a Surma fighter
Photo: istock.com/guenterguni
This touches upon one of the focuses of fashion theory as described in a previous post on Petit Poix.  Clothing design is inspired and treated as just one more layer of the "self". Our skin surface is treated as clothing.  The line between clothing and the wearer is fuzzy. Julie Rose worked as a tattooer for two decades and now designs in fiber. This is probably not coincidence.  In design the arts intermingle, cross into each other and as with tattoos and clothing, the lines are not defined. She states:  
Julie Rose Tattooer 
Scenic Turnout Blog
"I thought that if and when I stopped tattooing, I'd go back to painting or drawing, but neither of these art forms calls to me. Working with fiber, like tattooing, is tactile in nature.  Tattooing isn't just "drawing on skin." When one tattoos, one has to stretch the skin, hold it taut, hold the person, touch their skin. People also have an odor, both good and bad, as does fiber. Fiber feels more alive than a canvas or a piece of paper. It demands that one respects it's nature, as does working with skin as canvas. "
In her blog Everything is Interesting Julie gives a wonderful brief insight into the industry and culture of tattoos. How to Become a Tattooist (A Quick History) and Why You Should Not Get a Tattoo.